Preparing and participating in the presentation of elaborate dessert tables while working in Sicilia was one of my favorite experiences. Known as the “Venetian” hour, it is a wonderful and legendary Sicilian tradition in which the bride and groom (or hosts) display to their guests a dazzling array of pastries, cakes, frozen desserts, fresh fruit, and coffees. It is presented in great quantity and with much celebration. The presentation of sweets is always breathtaking in its variety and exuberance. When done properly it is the highlight of the event, often accompanied with flowers, ice sculptures, contrast lighting, water and chocolate fountains, and even pyrotechnics. It was, for me, professionally and artistically satisfying, to see everyone so happy and excited by the wide variety of desserts.

The roots of the phrase “Venetian hour” are a little complex but the style of presentation can be traced back to the separation of desserts from the main course in the 19th century. In the early 1800s service “a la russe” became the primary form of dining in western Europe and continues to be the style to this day. Service a la russe is simply dining separated into courses, for example; aperitivo, antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, insalata, formaggi e frutta, dolce, caffe and amaro. Before this change to service a la russe the prevalent style was service “a la francaise” in which nearly all the food was brought out at the same time and you simply helped yourself (a sort of fancy family style dining experience).

So why do Sicilians call their dessert hour the Venetian hour? It’s not totally clear why but the most likely reason is that in the 19th century Venice was well known throughout Europe as being a very sensual and decadent place. So, labeling something Venetian was an easy way to describe or call to mind anything that was simply over the top or very fancy. In any event, the new format for dining was perfect for Sicilian pastry chefs to fully display their international reputation for producing some of the most elaborate, and certainly the most delicious, pastries in Europe.

A Venetian hour is truly a feast for the eyes and the taste buds. It begins after dinner is finished and the cake is cut, usually a late-hour climax to the festivities. Most fancy receptions usually set aside a separate room for the Venetian hour. The arrangement can range from a single long table to a series of tables around the room or several grouped together to create a sumptuous dessert island that guests can circle again and again. Alternatively, you can have tables wheeled into the reception already laden with our sweets for a dramatic show. A Venetian hour invariably leaves everyone with amazing and long-lasting happy memories.

Chef Andrea