Seasonality, Blackberries, and the Devil

I really enjoy the changing seasons. It helps inspire me to think about what produce we should be using to incorporate into our desserts. Fresh produce is not that difficult to find in this area because we are a short distance from a very large agricultural region, namely the Catskills and the Hudson Valley. Getting fresh eggs, milk and produce is a lot easier here than say in New York City. Another advantage we have is our highly esteemed farmers market or “mercato” which attracts truckloads of fresh produce grown on local family-owned farms. Local “mercati” are the norm in Italy, because the scale and inaccessibility of much of the land has meant that the market culture, with its seasonal and regional emphasis, has survived virtually unaltered for centuries. Unlike out-of-season produce, which is harvested early in order to be shipped and distributed to your local retail store, crops picked at their peak of ripeness are significantly better tasting and full of flavor. What is more, studies have shown that fruits and vegetables contain more nutrients when allowed to ripen naturally on the plant. Yet we are often tempted to continue consuming our favorite but out-of-season produce thanks to the globalization of our food chain. A perfect example of this is blackberries. 

Blackberries are common in northern Italy and, like here, can be harvested from June to the end of September. They taste great, are usually abundant, and affordable. They are very popular because of their flavor and we now know, thanks to science, that they provide many impressive health benefits. The antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals found in blackberries deliver a variety of health benefits. Blackberries are an excellent source of Vitamin C, E, K, as well as, calcium and manganese.  Antioxidants such as anthocyanins hold many anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. So naturally, we would all love to eat them year-round but the flavor and nutritional benefits decline substantially when brought in from long distances. That is why after this weekend I do not use fresh blackberries and look forward to their return next June. There are however, other reasons for some of us, so I will leave you with this wonderful story. 

Historically, Michaelmas (September 29) marked the last day that blackberries could be picked and eaten in Europe. Michaelmas is a celebration of Michael the archangel in the Christian calendar. A popular piece of medieval folklore was used in those days to explain the seasonality of blackberries. Basically, the story goes, that when Michael the archangel expelled Lucifer from heaven, Lucifer fell from the skies and landed in a prickly blackberry bush. The enraged Satan cursed the fruit, scorched the blackberry bush with his breath, then stamped and spat on the berries. By doing so he rendered the blackberries sour and unfit for consumption after the 29th. We recall this marvelous piece of folklore as we mark the end of the blackberry season at L'Arte.

Chef Andrea